Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Che bella appetito Nino!

For la belle's b-day, she chose a special little place nestled amongst the peep shows and sex shops of Cheshire bridge...the old school Italian gem that is Nino's. Opened in 1968, it is Atlanta's oldest Italian restaurant.

I loved it. I do not think I have been in a restaurant in Atlanta that felt like it had hardy roots. Nino's reminded me of the Italian restaurants in Chicago. The decor was understated, if a bit out of style. The lights low. The paintings on the walls had age to them. There was no techno music playing, no model thin waitresses carrying minuscule portions on triangular trays...no "scene" to be spoken of. Now if you want Italian and scene, go to Pricci, the food is great and everyone wears Dolce & Gabbana..If you want food that is delicious, a comforting "part of the family" atmosphere, and a charming, well aged waiter who knows the difference between a chianti and a sangiovese and whether one goes better with the veal stuffed olives than the other....go to Nino's.

Our waiter was wonderful. I swear he made all three of us blush, and it wasn't because he was wearing the latest skin tight Diesel jeans...no, he was probably a 50ish gentleman about half my height, but he spoke of the specials as if he was making love to them. He squealed with delight as he put down our dishes in front of us, murmuring "bella! bella!" Could have been an act, but it felt good to us. When we asked about how they made the veal stuffed olives, he actually knew they were stuffed inside and out and said the breadcrumbs were from the very rolls on our table. He KNEW the food. Only once have a met a waiter so in love with and knowledgeable of his food, in New York's Rockefeller Center restaurant, The Sea Grill. (And I swear we had to warm him up before he would trust us with his knowledge and love for the menu! But when he did! Oh Boy!) I digress...we had:

Pre dinner cocktails: 2 vodka/1 gin martinis up, dirty with olives

Amuse bouche: tiny warm crostini with fresh tomato and herbs
These were perfect! Warm! Petit! Fresh...the best I have have. You could taste just the ingredients for their pure individual flavors.

First course:
Fried green olives stuffed with veal
These were amazing. So crisp, not a bit oily...the firm tang of the olive contrasting with the rich, moist veal...mmm I thought I had a recipe for these...Olive all'Ascolana...I found it and will have to try and make now...maybe for new years.

Main course:
Fish Special
Fresh Grouper in tomato broth
She cleaned the plate...a rarity for this ami.

Fettucine alla Michela
Fettuccine with fresh shrimp and scallops in a light Pernod and saffron cream sauce
Holy doodoo I liked this. It was not a ginormous portion...for pasta it was the most approachable of quantities. The creaminess was not heavy and rich. It was light, savory, transporting... and the saffron and Pernod gave it the most delicate escalation of flavor. The seafood was cooked perfectly: the shrimp firm and the scallops heart wrenchingly tender (and huge).

Vitello Saltimbocca
Veal sautéed in seasoned white wine sauce, fresh sage, topped with prosciutto di parma
Also a clean plate member...the birthday girl adored this, and I found it rather rich and delicious myself.

Dessert:
Cappucino, tiramisu and a special birthday trio of desserts, including the most wonderful, moist marzipan I have ever tasted. I didn't know they made it like that.

Wine:
A carafe of the house red, a Montipulciano.

Nino's was a surprising delight for me. A hidden gem. It just felt different than most restaurants in Atlanta. It wasn't all sparkly. I like sparkly, but I love different, interesting and charming. I had always heard of Alfredos...a mere stone's throw from Nino's, but will happily pass on by, sight unseen, for another table at Nino's.

No comments: